Try it ... made general conclusions ...
All the troubles of this model from the native charging unit (fast charging) - high consumption, ill-conceived cooling, poor soldering of the elements, as well as auto-update, especially at night, with a discharged battery. I recommend charging with regular 5V charging, turn off auto-update! Install firmware V12.0.10.0.QJFMIXM after repair (fixed bugs when overheating, auto shutdown of processes, periphery and the same, etc.), if you see the consequences of an unsuccessful auto-update, the appearance of red labels and codes on the screen.
To the point: 1) Remove the pmi632 screen frame, carefully remove the solder (on the board for the frame and on the frame itself), wash it out of small balls (and there are plenty of them) and factory gumboil. 2) We take a good flux, lead wire solder, and solder with a hairdryer (320-350 degrees) all capacitors (sizes 0402, 0603), because we noticed orange halos of non-soldering tracks and thermite solder of those! Stirring the containers is obligatory because it happens that "shorties" crawl out from under them, turning into small balls - and this is a possible short-term, abnormal consumption! Factory soldering in this place is just "super"!) But not only that which closes, but also where there is bad contact, heats up! And with fast charging, the temperature reaches 100 degrees (someone measured it). Tin all the "bare orange" areas under the capacitors! To be convincing, you can take a thermograph, just warm up the board to turn it on, connect the charger, turn it on and compare it with the board after the capacitors are soldered! 3) Supporters of "paid repairs" claim that everything is done only with a hairdryer, without reballs, all the details are native - and this is so! Checked! But I advise you to warm up the CP as well. small solder debris falls or sits under the checkpoint. After warming up, without measuring elementary strapping for a short circuit, many connect the battery and often get a burnt-out coil L1901. And this is a consequence of kz under kp. In this case, we will roll the gearbox (replacement is possible) and change the L1901. 4) At a hairdryer temperature of 180-200 degrees, we clean the kp pmi632 from the paint layer very carefully, leaving the marking of the point - the key. 5) Thoroughly wash the board area from the flux and put the screen frame evenly and using a rose and a soldering iron, beautifully tinning the cracks (after all, the factory-type solution also implies doing everything at the factory with high quality)) 6) We put a thermal pad between the PC and the screen cover that is not native (since we removed the paint layer from the PC and there were manipulations with the frame and some wrote that it highlights some kind of oxide), and a little thicker, apply a bit of thermal paste on the screen cover (I recommend GD007) and collect that! Change the software if necessary!
That's all! Do it, check it and everything will work out!...
